TANGALIYA WEAVE

Gujarat, is the sole custodian of the intricate Tangaliya weaving that has been brought back from the brink of extinction. Tangaliya is a 700 years old traditional hand weaving technique which is a laborious and a pain staking process. This craft was unknown to the world until 2007-2008, when it received the GI (Geographical Indication) certification, during the design intervention project by NIFT.

Tangaliya weaving is distinguished by raised dots or dana’s that are woven to create beautiful geometrical patterns on both sides of the fabric. The raised dots are achieved by twisting extra weft around warp threads. The weavers’ fingers sense exactly the right number of warp threads and twist extra weft around them. The dana’s which are woven on the cloth are known as Tangaliya. The unique aspect of this weaving is that the designs are woven into the fabric while on the loom and not embroidered or added later. This results in a glorious geometric pattern, tiny white/coloured dots lighting up rich, dark fabrics giving the effect of fine embroidery to it. This craft has zero use of mechanical tools or devices and continues to follow the traditional method that goes back to the 14th century.  Traditionally, Tangaliya used black sheep or camel wool to create shawls and blankets, but now these weavers create magic with cotton and silk too for the contemporary market making products like Sarees, Kurta fabric (Men and Women), Dupattas, blouse pieces and fabric. The weavers and the weave can be any designer’s delight.

The motif vocabulary of Daana weaving mainly constitutes of the elements present in the community’s environment. Some examples are peacock, deer ,trees, naughara and many more. The prominent Tangaliya designs are Ramraj, Dhunslu, Lobdi, Gadia, and Charmalia.In Ramraj, heavy dana work is done in maroon, pink, orange, green and yellow colours over a white base. Borders are sometimes embellished with zari. Lobdi shawl is generally made in maroon with white danas and is one of the most popular among customers. Charmalia has both maroon and black warp and black weft. This gives an alternate effect while danas are again mostly made in white. Dhunslu has less dense beadwork. Warp is mostly black cotton/silk yarn and weft is silk or cotton yarns. These can be customized as per clients requirement. An interesting fact about Tangalya weave is that the right side as well as the reverse look exactly the same and could be worn either side.

This weave in pure handwoven cotton, silk or combination is an absolute comfort attire to get you through your daily chores. The cleverly woven tangaliya motifs lend a sense of tradition to your outfit. The colors and the age tested designs makes a great gift for your loved ones.

We are extremely happy to promote this exquisite weave of Gujarat and salute the weavers for their Karigiri.